Summit Lake to Liard Hot Springs—June 2

I woke up early, 5:15, and after my usual two cups of coffee and taking Dulce for her morning walk so she can cover up any evidence left by any overnight visitors, I loaded up with my cameras and went in search of the Stone Mountain Sheep usually present on the highway in the morning.  I was not disappointed because in less than a mile north of the camp I found 4 on the highway.  One was a nice older male with a nice set of horns who did some posing for me before he and the group headed off the highway and into the nearby by forest (see pics Jim Hailey Nature Photography).  So with that mission accomplished I headed back to get things ready to travel.  I was on the road by 7:00.  This area is the most northern portion of the Rocky Mountains and as I zig and zagged my way down through the pass I marveled at the beautiful scenery I was passing through (see pics).  This is probably one of the prettier drives on this highway.  Once down and crossing the Toad River where I stopped at the Toad River Lodge to get more gas as there are not many gas stations along this stretch of the road.  It was only 3 cents per liter higher than in Ft. Nelsonhoto. which I thought was very reasonable since it is so remote.  Now I began my descent into Muncho Lake PP, a very beautiful area along the Alcan.  At one spot on the Toad River there was a falls that began on the crest of the canyon wall several hundred feet above me (see pic) and came all the way down and under the highway.  As I progressed in my drive I finally reached Muncho Lake, a beautiful lake with deep blue water created by the copper brought down from above in the water.  I have camped her on 3 occasions in the past but today, the weather had turned to rain and I decided to push on to Liard Hot Springs PP a short 45 miles from Strawberry campground on the lake (see pics).  The rain actually came down harder and I ran into some major highway construction about 15 miles from my destination.  The pilot car finally appeared and took us through about 4 miles of gravel and mud until we reached the end of construction.  I made it to Liard Hot Springs and picked out my campsite and it was still raining.  As I pulled up to where I was going to camp I noticed a large bird land in the campsite across the road.  My first impression was it was a grouse and as it turned out I was right.  A female Spruce Grouse was walking around the edge of the campsite but before I could retrieve my camera she had moved back into the underbrush where I could see her but was not able to get photo.  So I proceeded to maneuver into my site and set up camp for the next two days.  The rain had slowed and soon it was over and the sun came out.  Just before I reached the park I encountered a bull buffalo and earlier near Toad River I had an elk and white-tailed deer

After having lunch and getting everything situated, I put on my swim suit and joggers and headed to the hot springs (see pics).  It’s but a shore 15 walk from my site down a nice boardwalk thought the swampy area that surround the spring.  Since I as last here that have constructed bath houses to change in, a nice addition.  I got into the pool which ranges from 100 to 120 degrees and sat there soaking in the warm water.  The sun was out, lots of people enjoying the water as well and I struck up a conversation with a young man form Grand Junciton, CO.  He has worked on the slope for many years but they recently moved back to CO because his wife could not endure the long, dark winters of Anchorage.  He has since quit his position and was back in Anchorage to get some items they left and was heading home.  We share many things about Alaska that we both love.  He would have preferred to stay in Alaska as it was a place he really enjoyed living.  I returned to camp, cooked some supper, took Dulce for here walk and then downloaded pictures taken during the day.  For some reason, maybe the soaking, I felt tired so we went to bed and read some more of the book I am reading, PT 109 about JFK.  Tomorrow I plan to explore a nearby waterfall.

Charlie Lake to Summit Lake—June 1

As I head up the Alcan I am reminded why I love this drive so much.  The highway right of way, approximately 150 to 200 feet wide is lined as far as the eye can see by massive popular species, either Balsam, Aspen or Paper Birch with various fir species intermixed.  It you scan the horizon in front of you all you can see is a green forest in every direction with the occasional glimpse of the Coastal mountains in the far distance.  Traffic is a bit heavier than in earlier trips due to the large oil field presence now, but I would compare it with rush hour traffic in Realitos (a town of maybe 50 people in Duval County, Texas where I use to live).  The farther I get from Ft. Saint John the slower the traffic becomes and I might meet or be passed by someone every 30 minutes or so.  About 50 miles out I had to come to a screeching halt as a Moose cow and her calf ran alongside the car and I knew she was going to cross in front of me, which she did as did her calf.  Looking out the driver side window I watched the cow as she stood glaring at me while her calf moved toward the forest edge.  I actually felt like she was prepared to charge my vehicle so I didn’t have time to snap a photo before I moved on.  When I reached Fort Nelson I found a Tim Horton’s (of course) and had lunch where I had the last internet connection I expected for the next several days.  So I notified my family not to worry if they didn’t hear from me for a while as I would be out of touch.  After filling up with gas at $1.29.9 CAD per liter ($3.78 per gal US) I continued on.  I notice the campground in which I have stayed on occasion in Ft. Nelson by the weather was perfect and I decided to head on to Summit Lake PP at the highest pass on the Alcan Highway. This was a good decision.  I have passed by this location 3 times previously and it was usually cold and raining, but today it was warm and sunny as I pulled into the campsite.  Only one other person was there so I had my choice of campsites that backed up to Summit Lake (see pictures on Jim Hailey Nature Photography).  What a beautiful day and what a beautiful site.  The lake is crystal clear there was a Spotted Sandpiper calling on the rocks just a few yards from camp and I was visited repeatedly by a Common Yellow-throated Warbler (see pics), American Robins, singing Yellow-rump Warblers, one Gray Jay came to the table to check for scraps, an American Kestrel sitting atop a distant tree and a flyby Northern Harrier looking for a quick meal.  Later three others showed up to camp and I settled in for the night.  I’m so glad I decided to go the extra distance to camp here as I had always want too.  I had not seen the Stone Mountain Sheep (actually a dark morph subspecies of the lighter Dall Sheep), but I planned to go looking for them early tomorrow morning.

Winagami to Charlie Lake PP, May 31

Woke up to a beautiful, sunny morning and the morning chorus was in full swing.  The White-throated Sparrows were everywhere singing their hearts out.  I could also hear the hard clack of several Ovenbirds in the area surrounding understory.  After my morning coffee sitting in the zero gravity chair and listening to God’s chorus all about me, I got busy, prepared the trailer for travel and headed out.  I was on the road by 8:15 heading to Dawson Creek and the start of the Alaska Highway officially.  The drive was very nice as I headed west with bright sun and a slight southwesterly wind giving me some assistance instead of the previous times bucking a northwest wind.  The area for the most part is very flat prairie and the predominated crop seems to be wheat, although I’m told they grow barley and hops as well.  The massive fields of canola have not been planted as yet, but on my return trip the fields should be covered in beautiful, yellow blooms.

Unfortunately, there was no Tim Hortons along the way, at least that I saw.  I passed through many small towns, all with massive silos for storing their crops and eventually I began to see the evidence of oilfield activity.  By the time I got to Dawson Creek it was near noon, but since I crossed into British Columbia time reverted to PDT so I gained an hour.  After a short stop to give Dulce a chance to walk around and find where other dogs have been and a short visit in the Visitor Center we headed on to Ft. Saint John.  There I did find a Tim Hortons and had my lunch, and a donut of course, before heading on out to Charlie Lake PP a short 6 miles north of town.  Speaking of town, Ft. Saint John, has made a massive change in the 19 years since I first passed through this area on my way to Alaska the first time.  In 1998, there was only a quick stop for fuel and a few items found in 7 elevens.  Then in 2003, there were a few business as the oil play in the area had begun.  Then when I arrived in 2007 there were several hotels, grocery stores, gas stations and restaurants, but it still quite small.  This time I was blown away.  The traffic was ferocious, there was a Super Walmart, several Tim Hortons, restaurants and hotels all along the highway and it appears a fairly large community that is very busy. 

Made it on to Charlie Lake got my trailer set up, took Dulce for a walk and was amazed at the park.  The last time I was here there was maybe 12 sites (53 today) roughly developed, no facilities such as water and about the only item was a picnic table.  Now there are pit toilets everywhere in the park, many water supply stations and someone here fulltime to collect the fees.  This afternoon I took a three and a half hike through the massive balsam poplar and mixed aspen groves to the lake and back.  Along the way I heard the resident White-throated Sparrows singing their endless song, a greater number of Yellow Warbles make their presence known and I saw a single Swainson’s Thrush who posed for a picture.  I could also her the occasional Ovenbird clacking in the understory and a few American Robins played along the trail and one let me approach within 5 feet before flying.  Back at camp I took a short nap, shower and shave before writing the blog and getting ready to head back to Tim Hortons to scam off their internet and have a cup of coffee.