Barrow, Alaska--From Nome we traveled back to Anchorage before heading to the most northern part of North America, Barrow.  Barrow is an isolated Inupiat village that can only be reached by plane,over an ice highway in winter.  Many there live on subsistence hunting.  They pride themselves in their ability to hunt bow head whales, which they do every year.  I must say I admire them because they truly risk their lives the this pursuit.  Their whaling boats are made of skins and they are manned by a five man crew.

To be selected to serve as a crew member is a high honor within the community.  When they are successful in their hunt, most of the villagers turn out to help with the large task of cutting up and transporting the catch across the massive ice pack to the shore.  Later the village will be invited to a pot latch celebration and dinner.  

The village is a very poor one as can be evidenced by the poor housing in which they live. Only in recent times have they had the luxury of natural gas to heat their homes.  There are several wells in the area which provide this much need resource.  Since there are no trees of any kind, the highest living plant is grass that may reach to be a foot tall, you can understand their need for a source of heat. While we were there on June 10 it was in the mid thirties and it snowed as we were leaving.  I take no photos of the homes or living conditions as they do not was that done by outsiders.  But as you drive through the neighborhood's you are struck by the abandoned vehicles, trash and other items laying about.  

For birders this far north community offers the opportunity to enjoy some very colorful species, specifically king, spectacle and Steller's eiders.  Fortunately on this trip we got them all.  Here are some pictures.

Top: King Eider, Middle, Spectacle Eider, Bottom. Steller's Eider

In addition to these beauties, we are also able to get very close views of red phalarope, enjoy the display of both pectoral sandpiper and dunlin which are very interesting to watch.  The sandpiper puffs out his chest feathers and using a rapid flutter of his wing as he sails just above the ground to attract his mate.  Not to be out done, the dunlin flies high up in the air and then begins a rapid fluttering decent.  I always enjoy these displays.  In this community there are only twelve miles of road which be driven by traditional vehicles.  To go off into the tundra you will need a special permit and a four wheeler, something I have yet to experience.  

There is also a possibility of a polar bear which in winter are known to wander into town.  In hopes of keeping them out of their community the locals place the whale and other hunting remains out side of town on the ice pack, thus encouraging them not to invade their space.

Let me conclude this with three other favorites the red-necked phalarope, long-tailed duck (which used to be called Oldsquaw before political correctness) and snowy owl which are specialties of the area.

Day 7—Today was a very windy day and the birds were hunkered down for the most part.  I headed out Council Road and Safety Lagoon once again. There was little activity at the Nome River Crossing and there were no birds visible from Nome Point.  Once we reached the Lagoon it did pick up but not very exciting as the most numerous species was Northern Pintails.  My objective was to confirm the nesting Gyrfalcon under the bridge at Salmon River.

This  was the extent of travel out Council for the time being.  The total lack of snow or ice remains striking to me.  There was some snow pack left in the higher elevations.

On the return I did find a few interesting birds.  The Common Eiders were out in great numbers.

Along the shoreline in a large group of gulls I found a nice Sabine's Gull.  There were many Black-legged Kittiwakes among the raft of gulls as well

And to complete the day we had a small group of Harlequin ducks at Nome Point.  This is one of the most beautiful ducks in my opinion.

Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day with less or no wind.

Day 6—I’m still in Nome and today I did the Kougarock Road out to Pilgrim’s River.  Along the way we encountered Kim Risen and his group stopped looking and photographing a Bluethroat.  I got some of the best pictures of this bird I have ever taken.

 He came within 30 feet and perched for our photos.  That was clearly the best part of the day.  Other than that I encountered the same basic species of Dickie birds (small birds) as on the other days.   The weather was mild again although the wind was more apparent.  Some of the other birds included a nesting pair of Golden Eagles (although the nest is concealed from view), a nice singing Gray-cheeked Thrush, 

and a somewhat cooperative Willow Ptarmigan

Another bird of interest this day was found near town, a Northern Shrike. This bird was here last year in the same area.  For the first time in the many times I have been in Nome I drove the road into Pilgrim Hot Springs.  I was a bit disappointed in I found there.    The is a good field on the way in for Northern Wheatear. 

As an interesting side note at dinner this evening we observed a highly intoxicated man passed out on the rocks outside our window.  The police eventually came and roused him and made him move on.  Alcohol is a major problem here in Nome.  There are numerous bars and liquor stores up and down Main Street.  It is very different in Barrow in which there is no alcohol and therefore less drunks.

Day 5—This day started off better as we headed out Teller Road.  At our first stop we had Orange-crowned, Yellow, and Wilson’s warblers as well as a group of Musk Oxen.  Then as we headed up the road we encountered two Surfbirds coming towards us in the middle of the road.  They offer a great photo opportunity for us.   As we went further we encountered Golden-crowned and American Tree Sparrows, many Long-tailed Jaegers and finally a Willow Ptarmigan.  We encountered another group of birders who had located a Bluethroat and we could see it in the scope but didn’t pursue getting closer in order not to disturb their opportunity.  At Wooley Lagoon we found our Northern Wheatear and had the opportunity to witness a mating display of Black-bellied Plover.  Along this road we also had several American Golden Plover.  At Bluestone River we encountered a family of three Rough-legged Hawks to cap off the day.

Day 4—Last night (Saturday) I attended the Eagle River AA meeting where I got my chip for 26 years of sobriety.  When I think of that I am amazed that it has been 26 years.  Then on Sunday morning I prepared to leave for a week in Nome.  The plan is to do some scouting and then wait for the group to arrive on Friday.  So after our flight arrived at 11:30 went to get the vehicle to use for the rest of the week.  Then I grabbed a sandwich and headed for Safety Lagoon to do some birding.  The temperature here is in the mid 70’s and I am not dressed for this, forcing me to finally take off my shirt and bird in my t-shirt.  Boy is this surprising!  There is no ice anywhere to be seen.  That is the first time in all the years I have been here that there is no ice.  The other thing is the surprising lack of birds.  There was a diverse species present but numbers are significantly reduced.  I think the best birds of the day at Safety was Aleutian tern that flew over the road. On this trip I had two at the Nome sewer ponds and the one out at Safety.  In years past they have only occurred at what we call the Train to Nowhere.  So rather disappointed by what I saw at the lagoon.  Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.

Alaska--2015

Day 4—Last night (Saturday) I attended the Eagle River AA meeting where I got my chip for 26 years of sobriety.  When I think of that I am amazed that it has been 26 years.  Then on Sunday morning I prepared to leave for a week in Nome.  The plan is to do some scouting and then wait for the group to arrive on Friday.  So after our flight arrived at 11:30 went to get the vehicle to use for the rest of the week.  Then I grabbed a sandwich and headed for Safety Lagoon to do some birding.  The temperature here is in the mid 70’s and I am not dressed for this, forcing me to finally take off my shirt and bird in my t-shirt.  Boy is this surprising!  There is no ice anywhere to be seen.  That is the first time in all the years I have been here that there is no ice.  The other thing is the surprising lack of birds.  There was a diverse species present but numbers are significantly reduced.  I think the best birds of the day at Safety was Aleutian tern that flew over the road. On this trip I had two at the Nome sewer ponds and the one out at Safety.  In years past they have only occurred at what we call the Train to Nowhere.  So rather disappointed by what I saw at the lagoon.  Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.