Eklutna Lake—June 26-28

In preparing this blog entry I decided to lump three days together.  The 26^th was Sunday and it started raining late Saturday night and continued raining until mid-afternoon.  Thus I spent most of the day hold up in the trailer.  The time was not wasted as it gave me an opportunity to catch up on all my photos.  Later that afternoon I headed into Eagle River and visited the local Starbucks for coffee and time to post some of the pictures I had recently completed working on and the blogs.  Then I noticed a new Mexican food restaurant here in Eagle River, one I had eaten at in Wasilla in years past—Chepo’s.  The name is not cheapo’s as you can see and so I decided to eat out tonight.  The food was ok, can’t really get good Mexican food here in Alaska, and afterwards I returned to camp. 

On the 27^th, Monday, I headed to Anchorage.  I had received notice from Mike and Terri Church, the couple I had met at Laird Hot Springs back in Canada, that they had arrived in Anchorage and were at the Centennial campground.  I went to meet them and have coffee.  At coffee we decided to meet at WeeB’s for lunch and then head down to Westchester Lagoon and the waterfront to do some birding at high tide.  Today high tide was a 12:59 and was going to be a 28 footer, really not a big one.  So after lunch we headed to Westchester.  We took a walk down to the Audubon Bench but the tide was not great for birding.  We did observe about 5 Sandhill Cranes feeding in the flats, several Bonaparte’s Gulls mixed in with the myriad of Mew Gulls and located one Glaucous-winged Gull.  We also caught a glimpse of a small bird chipping in the understory and I suspect it could have been a Tennessee Warbler although I was not able to get a definitive look.  Back at the lagoon we had several Mallards with their chicks in the small pond under the bridge.  Then in the wetlands between the train tracks and the Coastal Trail there were about 100 Short-billed Dowitchers feeding.  I wonder if they have completed their nesting and are gathering for the return migration south?  I suspect that to be the case.  In the lagoon there were several Red-necked Grebes on floating nest and feeding as well.  Then on the small island near the parking lot we found more Short-billed Dowitchers and a single Hudsonian Godwit (this turned out to be a life bird for the Church’s).  In addition, there were many Mew Gulls swimming about with their chicks and a Red-necked Grebe nesting on the shore.  Out in the water we could see a large group of Canada Geese and some Greater Scaup as well.  We noticed the small café was open so we headed there to get a cup of coffee.  This was a really beautiful day, sunny, warm and a nice breeze, so we just sat there and visited until 5:30 when I headed back to camp.  Mike and Terri are both retired CPA’s who are full time RV’ers.  They also produce books about camping.  They have guides for the Pacific Northwest, Southwestern US, Mexico, Alaska and Europe.  Their guides can be purchase in bookstores or direct from them at Rollinghomes.com.  A very nice couple who have lived in Alaska as well.  They will be joining me on Wednesday when we will attend White Keys—Whale Fat Follies.

So today, June 28, has been a lazy day form me.  I must say I have accomplished little.  I journeyed into Eagle River for a badly needed haircut this morning.  As I headed back to the campground around noon I could hardly stay awake.  I don’t know why I was so sleepy.  I slept well last night, but upon reaching the trailer I took Dulce to bed with me and we took an hour and one-half nap.  All afternoon I have continued to be very lazy and plan to just make an entire day of it.  

Eagle River Nature Center—June 25

I went to one of my favorite birding locations in the Anchorage Bowl this morning.  Not only is the place beautiful it is also a place where we find some good birds.  My first bird was a distant singing Alder Flycatcher which I have posted a photo of on Jim Hailey Nature Photography.  Every were there were calling Yellow-rump Warblers, Orange-crowned Warblers, Northern Waterthrush, Swainson’s Thrush and Harry Woodpecker beating his head against a nearby tree.  While I never heard or saw a Varied Thrush which I usually find here, there is no shortage of them back at my campsite on Eklutna Lake.  The morning was sunny and cool, the vegetation was verdant and the mountain vistas magnificent.  I posted a video of the area taken from one of the viewing platforms on Facebook yesterday, so if you missed it go to my timeline and check it out.  I also checked out a trail on the Eagle River that I have not done in years past.  It was ok but I didn’t come across any new species and there were many American Robins along this trail.  In the afternoon I once again birded the area around my campsite and turned up several Dark-eyed Juncos and heard a Northern Hawk Owl calling from the trees behind my trailer.  Unfortunately, I could not locate him for a picture.  In the evening I just took a walk with Dulce before turning in for the night.

Eklutna Lake—June 24

So this morning I was joined by the park host, Michalle, and she took me on a trail that went to the lake at its west end.  There we had three spotted sandpipers and an immature diving duck that I will have to figure out from my photos.  There were many varied thrush singing, they sing everywhere in this park, many yellow-rumps, some unidentified sparrows way out in the grass although I could hear the call of at least one Lincoln’s in the group, some very cooperative black-capped chickadees and three red-breasted nuthatches.  By this time it had started to rain so we headed back toward my campsite.  Today was laundry day so after gathering up all the items that needed to go I headed to Eagle River and the laundromat I found the other day.  After the laundry was finished I headed to Subway for a late lunch and then to the public library for internet access.  There I was able to catch up and post all the blogs I was behind and that was a feeling of relief.  By then it 5 and I headed back to camp for some spaghetti and a nice camp fire.

Eklutna Lake—June 23

Ok, so up at 5, coffee (most important), then at 6 headed to Worthington Ford.  I met with Margie (my contact) and she did the paper work.  Margie was extremely helpful and went out of her way to make sure I got the best treatment.  She told me that the technician would check it out and she would get back to me.   She then escorted me to a waiting room with a computer table, internet service and coffee to wait.  During this time, I took the opportunity to get my bill pay up to date, change my passwords on several accounts because I had been informed by Google that someone unauthorized had figured out my password, did some internet searching on some things I want to check out and ordered thickets for the Whale Fat Follies and White Keys funny spoof of Alaska.  I have attended this production overtime it has been available here in Anchorage.  As it turned out WhiteKeys is the president of the Anchorage Audubon and we have birded together several times in the last 10 years.  He is a hoot and his shows are fast and fun.  A couple I met along the way Terri and Mike I mentioned in an earlier post had contacted me about us going together.  They have been to Anchorage many times but never attended and so I got tickets for the three of us.  I’m looking forward to spending the evening with them.  I was pleasantly surprised when Margie walked in about noon and said they problem was fixed, they had installed the new (and I must say updated controller—the defective parts in the older one were fixed) and that all was taken care of under warranty.  So I stayed a little longer, then went back to REI to check on an order and did a little shopping before returning to camp.  In the evening I decided to do a little birding in the campground.  As I sat in my chair I could hear several Varied and Swainson’s Thrush calling.  As I was walking one of the campground host and her husband and two children were walking along.  She turned out to be someone newly into birding and asked if she could join me.  Of course, I was happy to have her along.  As we birded we decided to go birding together in the morning.  Then at the campsite we continued to visit as her family made their rounds of the campground.   Dulce became a big hit with her and her two young children, twins with very interesting names—Asher the boy and Journey the girl.  They are full time RV’ers and decided to come to Alaska for the first time.

Eklutna Lake SP—June 22

So this morning I pondered what my options were.  The night before a group of people camped across from me it what was the most bazar composite of camping gear I had ever seen.  There was a van with an old pickup cover on top for sleeping.  It had a broken window in the back.  There was a blue van that was nearly rusted out along the bottom that was also used for sleeping.  In addition, there were tents.  It appeared that two or three families lived in this group.  There were children from babies to teenagers in the group.  It was quite a site.  They were asked to leave this morning and moved on.  The campground manager said they had been kicked out of the Centennial City campground in Anchorage and they were in violation of several items in their rules.  But back to my dilemma.  I didn’t want to move to Centennial for that very reason.  I had heard there were some pretty rough people living there.  The other alternative seemed to be back to Fred Meyer’s or maybe on to Cabelas’.  Cabelas’ has a new location in Anchorage and they have a parking lot for campers that will accommodate 25 free of charge.  Of course it is just a parking lot like Fred Meyer’s.  So I thought about heading out to Eklutna Lake which I have only visited once.  When I arrived shortly after lunch I found several open spots and decided on one.  Here I have put down for the next week.  The only thing I don’t like about this location is there is no cell coverage and it is about 5 miles back to get any.  However, the campground is very nice, near the lake (water source for Anchorage) and heavily wooded.  So I took my time and set up camp with all the extra—covered the picnic table with a table cloth, put down the mat to sit on, set up Dulce’s cage so I could keep here from wandering off when I’m busy doing something.  In all I just got situated.  Before I had left Eagle River I set up an appointment to have the Ford brake controller fixed on Thursday, tomorrow.  I need to be there by 7 and it was a 45-minute drive at least so I prepared to leave by 6 in the morning.  Tonight I cooked a filet, fresh green beans and an ear of corn.  All were extremely good and then I sat by the campfire until about 9 before heading to bed.  

Eagle River—June 21

Well this will be the last night I am able to stay in this campground unless they give me an extension.  So today I headed back to Anchorage and Potters Marsh to do some birding.  As has been the case of late Potters Marsh, one of the old premier birding location in the Anchorage Area, was not very active.  Something has changed here in the last few years and the bird numbers are down drastically.  There were a few waterfowl—Gadwall, American Widgeon, Green-wing Teal, lots of Mew Gulls flying around and nesting, a few Arctic Terns likewise nesting, and not much else to look at.  I headed on over to the boardwalk where I hoped to see more activity.  I did observe a muskrat swimming in one of the ponds.  As far as birds they again were few.  I actually was very surprise to not find a single Violet-green Swallow which I usually find a number of here.  I have some very nice photos of them sitting on the railing.  There were the usual number of Tree Swallows nesting in the boxes provide on the boardwalk and at the end the Bald Eagles have once again nested here.  I was able to observe two hatchlings in the nest and watched as both parents returned with noting to feed their young.  They will have to make another sortie over the marsh in hopes of grabbing a young chick or some other animal to feed their babies.  I did have a singing Lincoln’s Sparrow and heard the song of a Common Yellowthroat which has been reported here.  The yellowthroat is very rare for this area and has received lots of attention.  Also present were significant numbers of Yellow-rump Warblers that one would expect here.  From here I headed to my favorite hamburger place—Weebe’s.  I inquired of Jim, the 93-year-old owner of this establishment, but did not get a good report.  I’m not sure of his current condition but one of the workers said in her two months there she had not seen him.  Each year for the last 10 years we have talked.  Sorry to hear this news.  This place makes homemade sourdough buns, grinds his own hamburger meat, uses real potatoes cut up for fries, and tops it off with homemade ice-cream.  I had my usual burger and fries and a root beer shake for lunch.  From here I headed back to camp to get ready to make my move in the morning from Eagle River campground.  Oh yes, I almost forgot to mention that last night I noticed a filling had fallen out of a tooth I thought.  So first thing this morning I contacted a dental office and was lucky to be give a nine o’clock appointment with Dr. Howard.  I am always leery of dentist as I am a complete chicken when it comes to sitting in a dental chair.  I must say I was pleasantly surprised.  Not only was Dr. Howard a good dentist, but he was gentile and all went off without any pain.  In an hour he had fixed my broken tooth (not a lost filling) and I was out the door.  I certainly would recommend him as a dentist in Anchorage and would go back if I ever needed a dentist.

Eagle River—June 20

So on Saturday the 18^th I talked with the Ford parts department and they were going to order a new brake controller for me.  I called to make sure that they had followed through and was told that it should be here in 3 to 5 business days.  That accomplished I followed up on the gas strut for the awning but did not get a call back.  I did a bit of birding around the campsite but there was much going on.  A little later I headed back to Anchorage to enjoy a breakfast at Snow City Café.  As usual there was a long wait so I opted to go for the counter seating.  It turned out to be a very long wait as well.  While standing there waiting I struck up a conversation with a couple of women also waiting for a seat.  As it turned out one was from Austin and both had worked for Texas Parks and & Wildlife.  The one which lives in Austin currently was a planner who designed campground for the parks system.  She now works for the Texas Land Office.  The other was a planner for the development of Estero Llano Grande SP, one of my favorites in Texas, but now lives here in Anchorage and works for the city.  We shared information as we waited and as we ate as well.  From Snow City I headed to Westchester Lagoon, one of my favorite Anchorage birding location.  Once there I discovered that it was low tide and so the action along the tidal flats was very slow.  There were however the usual species hanging out on the small island in the lagoon—Mew Gulls with young chicks already well along and in the water, lots of Hudsonian Godwits and Short-billed Dowitchers loafing on the bank of the island, and a pair of Greater Scaup taking care of a nest with the hen patiently sitting on it.   I did not see the Bald Eagle that usually nest across the lagoon, but a passing lady related the big chase that occurred the day before as many of the gulls chased the eagle off and away from their chicks.   There was also a pair of Red-necked Grebes on a floating nest nearby, a Black-billed Magpie feeding in the grassy area and overhead several Glaucous-winged Gulls flew by.  That was about all I observed today.  It is late in the season and many of the birds are busy raising their broods and will soon be on their trip back to their wintering grounds.  From here I headed to the ABC RV parts store to make sure that I got the gas strut on order.  As I suspected the factory had not returned his call and we finally made contact with the appropriate source and go the part ordered (I had him order a spare as well).  By now it was midafternoon and I headed back to camp to check on Dulce.  Spent the remainder of the day in camp.

Eagle River—June 19

It started raining during the night.  I am seriously considering advertising my services as a rainmaker for any regions in need of rain.  And it continued to rain steadily, not the usual Alaska time drip, but some real rain all day and into the evening.  It was also in the 50s and Dulce was hunkered down in the covers all day long.  She didn’t even want to go outside for her usual walk.  I, likewise , chose to spend the day inside working on many pictures which needed my attention and to get them ready to post on my photography page.  In the afternoon both Dulce and I got under the covers and took a nap.  Not much else to do on a very cool and rainy day here in Alaska.

Eagle River—June 18

This morning I woke up in the Walmart parking area and decided to move over to the Fred Meyers store nearby.  I was not sure if Walmart here actually allowed overnight camping but I knew Fred Meyer’s did here in Eagle River.  After unhooking I decided to check out the Eagle River campground on a hunch and as it turned out there were many vacant spaces so I immediately paid or one and headed back to get the trailer.  I returned shortly and set up camp.  This campground has a four day stay limit so I maxed out and have until Wednesday here.  For the rest of the day I worked on the getting the items which have broken and need of repair moving forward.  I headed back to Anchorage in the afternoon, visited REI and the ABC RV parts store.  I was not able to confirm that he was able to secure the broken gas strut I needed for my awning, but he promised to call me later with a report.  Following this I returned to Eagle River and looked for a car wash to do the truck but could not find the old one that was there.  It has been torn down.  So back to camp and spent some time with Dulce who has been neglected in the last few days.  Took her on a long walk which she loves to do.  Settled in for the night.

McLaren River to Eagle River—June 17

This morning I had my coffee sitting in my zero gravity chair and looking at the distant and beautiful Alaska Range and specifically the McLaren Glacier.  The McLaren River is a braided river commencing in the McLaren glacier which has carved out this amazing valley of the eons.   While sitting here I was serenaded by a very vocal Yellow Warbler and Fox sparrows chimed in as well.  I also herd the clicking of a nearby Blackpoll Warbler and in the distance I observed a pair of Long-tailed Jaegers chasing a gull.  Jaegers are notorious for making other birds drop the food that they have caught and catching it in mid-air.   I decided to backtrack to the esker lakes to see what other species I might encounter before heading on up the road.  Besides the usual duck species, I did encounter more Black Scoters and I surprised a Merlin that took flight.  Unfortunately, it happened so quickly I didn’t get a photo.  There were both Trumpeter and Tundra Swans and lots of Red-necked Phalaropes.  I was also amazed at the abundant numbers of Arctic Warblers; it seems that there is more this year than ever.  At nearly every stop I could hear them calling.  Back in camp and preparing to leave I noticed what I thought was a dog coming down off the adjacent hill.  As it turned out it was a fox with something in its mouth.  I believe it was a bird, and most probably a Cliff Swallow, and it was being chased by a large number of Cliff Swallows.  I was fortunate to get photos and watched as it ran across the McLaren Bridge closely followed by many swallows.  Once packed I headed up the road stopping atop the McLaren Summit to take pictures of the valley below.  The Summit is over 4000 feet high and gives a majestic view of this large valley dotted with many small lakes with apparent beaver huts.  After stopping to try for a Norther Wheatear (I dipped) and watching a couple fly fish at one of the creeks crossing the road, I finally reached Tangle River Inn.  I stopped there to visit with Violet and Nadine, friends for many years now and have lunch.  Afterwards I decided to head on toward the Anchorage area and when I reached Glenallen around 2:30 I decided to just head on to Eagle River only a three-hour drive from there.  I looked for the Northern Hawk Owl that we have found the last two years on birding trips along the highway, but did not find one.  When I reached Eagle River I went to the state park for a camping spot but they were absolutely full and had a number of units in the overflow lot.  I made the decision to become a Walmart camper for the night and headed there.  Not my favorite place to camp but I was tired from a long day of driving and just needed a place to sleep.  

Brushkana to McLaren River—June 16

After morning coffee, I took a short walk to the river hoping for an American Dipper but dipped (pun intended) on finding one.  Then I returned to the campsite and made preparations to leave.  After sucking in the slide out, I made my usual rounds and to my surprise I had a flat on the left rear tire of the trailer.  So I get out the bottle jack, set it up to use, and it doesn’t work.  I then realized that it was probably out of oil so I got oil and began filling it.  This was a very slow process that I finally had to use the squeeze bladder that I use to wash out my ears.  Finally, I got it full enough to work properly and proceeded to change the tire.  All went well and I started up the road a little apprehensive about not having a spare and wondering if I could find someone to repair it along this very lonely road.  When I got to Gracious House, a lodging place that has not operated in a couple of years, I was surprised to see it was open and a young man on a four wheeler asked what I needed.  I asked if they repaired flats and he said they did.  He began to break the tire down and I could tell it was all somewhat new to him.  Over the next hour he struggled to get it off the rim and when he finally gave that effort up he worked with it half off and finally got it patched.  He charged $20 and I thought that was a bargain based on the effort it took him to finish the job.  Then off I went taking it slow today and checking all the ponds and making very frequent stops.  Within the first hour I had 3 porcupines on the road, a Rock Ptarmigan with half a dozen chicks in tow, a very nice Barrow Goldeneye group and a pair of swans.  I got to watch the goldeneye male do his mating ritual to a female who was not all that interested.      While stopped the man who works at Brahmana campground came by and stopped to see if I need help.  He reported that there was a large group of campers at Clear Creek and that he had reports that the place was a mess.  Sure enough when I arrive at the creek crossing there was indeed a large group of campers.  I’m not sure what they are doing but I have been encountering a quasi-military group on the road.  Anyway that is who was camped at the creek.  So I headed on and not too far from the crossing I heard the distinct call of an Arctic Warbler.  I stopped and was able to find it but not get good pictures.  Then along the eskers (the ridges left by glaciers as they moved in times pasts, the lakes were very active.  In addition to the usual duck species I had a Black Scoter, a pair of Trumpeter Swans with 6 cygnets which I was able to photograph and video as well.  I know they were trumpeter because they called.  There was also a pair of Tundra Swans in the same lake and shortly the male Trumpeter took off and ran the two Tundra Swans off.  Trumpeters are not very sociable.  At the next lake I found a large contingent of Bonaparte’s Gulls and Red-necked Phalarope to cap off a very good day with 22 species and some nice photos.  From there I went to McLaren’s Crossing where I set up camp in the same spot we did in 1998.  This is a beautiful vista of the McLaren Glacier and Alaska Range out across the McLaren Valley complete with braided river.  Across from me is a McLaren Lodge, owned by a young couple and a place I have stayed with birding groups in the past.  This spot is where I would like to have my ashes spread.  I think it would be a wonderful place to spend eternity.  After dinner, a piece of blackberry pie and coffee across at the lodge, and a Messenger visit with Deborah Rose, I took a short ride up the highway to where I knew there would be bank swallows, beaver and hopefully Arctic Warblers.  I was not disappointed and got several good pictures of the beaver having dinner and called in three or four Arctic Warblers and got some good shots of them.  And as a bonus a nice Wilson’s Warbler showed himself and I got a good shot of him as well.  Thus ended a very nice day-- bright sun, mid 70s, no wind, lots of birds, a beautiful campsite.

Fairbanks to Brushkana (AKA Mosquito Heaven)—June 15

So up early (5:30) drank coffee, hooked up and visited the dump before leaving to empty tanks and fill up with fresh water.  Not far out of Fairbanks there is a pull off on the crest of a long hill from which you get an awesome vista of the Tanana River Valley with the magnificent Alaska Range on the horizon.  This morning it was exceptionally clear and you could see Denali (Mt. McKinley) clearly on the right side of the range (see pics).  It is said that most people who visit Alaska never get to see the magnificent beauty on their visit.  I am most fortunate and have seen here on every visit.  I have seen her from downtown Anchorage to the Denali Highway and, now, from Fairbanks.  In the pictures I have posted you will see some amazing pictures of Denali, the Three Sisters, and the beautiful Alaska Range.  The Denali Highway is my favorite place in Alaska for scenery, Nome for birds.  Today the drive was exceptionally beautiful as it was sunny, warm (75 degrees) and very little humidity.  I frequently stopped to take more pictures and have added some panorama shots of the beautiful scenery.  As far as birds for the day I added a nice Red-throated Loon at the first small lake which was too far out to get good pictures.  This loon is not always found along this highway but is a regular in Nome.  At one stop to take pictures of the Susitna River Valley I noticed a Blackpoll Warbler singing in a nearby tree but did not have my large lens camera to take a picture.  There will be plenty of these birds along the road to get some good photos in the upcoming days.  Along the way I encountered another birder and a Wings Tour Group.  In addition to the loon, I found a pair of Common Goldeneye, singing Yellow and Orange-crowned Warbler, abundant singing White-crowned Sparrows and finally, at mile 103 overlook I was able to pick out some Bohemian Waxwings as well as Bufflehead, Greater Scaup, Red-necked Grebe and nesting Lesser Yellowlegs.  This is only the second time I have driven the Denali Highway from North to South as we usually come in at Paxon and exit at Cantwell, so I spent a great deal of my time observing the beauty of this region which I am usually flying through to get back to Anchorage for the groups departure.  I am really enjoying leading the group of one (me) this year.  I camped at Brushkana, a Bureau of Land Management campground for the night.  This is only the second time I have camped here.  I remember the first time here with Bert and Shari Frenz.  Ermine, my wife, was directing me into the campsite and here hand signals were very confusing.  She was waving her hand wildly and I really didn’t understand the direction which I later learned that she was swatting the many mosquitos in the campground.  That’s why I call it Mosquito Heaven.  This time I camped in a much more open area and the number of mosquitos was greatly reduced.  As I sat before the campfire in the evening a group of Gray Jays moved in and were very vocal.  I also was treated to the singing of a Swainson’s Thrush.  Tomorrow I will move on slowly down the road camping either at a special little lake or at my favorite vista on this highway, McLaren River.

Fairbanks—June 14

This morning I returned to Creamer’s Field and I was very disappointed.  The number of birds singing was very sparse today and I only added Savannah Sparrow and the fly bye of three White-faced Ibis.  I did observe another Hammond’s Flycatcher hunting and heard an Alder Flycatcher singing.  I spent over two hours there with very limited success.  I suppose that this location is best in migration, but the migrants have moved on farther north to their breeding grounds by this time in early June.  The rest of the day I spent doing some minor repairs to the hitch on my truck, some final grocery shopping before heading to the Denali Highway tomorrow where there will be no stores available, and make final preparations to secure items in the trailer for a bumpy ride.

Fairbanks—June 13

The rain from yesterday and overnight gave way to sunshine this morning.  I headed out to Creamer’s Farm NWR here in Fairbanks.  It was pretty cool in the low 50s and there was a fairly strong wind blowing.  I decided to take the side trail through the taiga and I didn’t count on the mosquitoes.  So far the mosquito population has been very low to non existant here in Alaska, but they were here in numbers.  I didn’t prepare well for this since I left the repellant in the car.  So I swatted my way around the loop.  As I came back to beginning I heard a calling Western Wood Pewee calling continuously.  I finally located him high in a dead tree but the picture is not good because he was backlit.  Shortly after that I noticed a small flycatcher low down in the bush.  It turned out to be a Hammond’s Flycatcher which I did get good photos of (see on my Facebook page).  From there I headed back to the car to get my repellant.  From there I decided to head to Westwood Lake, a private sanctuary that is open to the public and adjoins the Creamer sanctuary.  There is where I located the gull, grebe and I also had calling Alder Flycatcher and Orange-crowned Warbler.  This whole area is home to a very vocal and large group of Sandhill Cranes as well.  After lunch I headed to Tanana Lakes Recreation Area and was very disappointed.  The wind by afternoon was very strong so I’m sure this had much to do with the total lack of birds at this location.  So this ended the day.  Tomorrow I will re-visit Creamer’s and check some other local hotspots.

Kluane Lake to Fairbanks—June 10, 11, 12

These last three days have been primarily taken up with driving or weather, so I have decided to combine them into one blog. 

The drive from Kluane Lake to Tok required some slow driving due to the many frost heaves that I encountered as well as the more than 30 miles of gravel roads and highway construction.  For the un-initiated a frost heave is cause by the freezing of water below the road surface forcing the pavement up.  When driving over frost heaves think of a boat going over waves which is what it is like.  This makes for a very undulating ride and cause one to slow down, especially when you have a 27-foot trailer behind.  At any rate, it does affect the speed at which you can drive.  Then you encounter long stretches of gravel road where they are working to repair the frost heaves and make the road more suitable for driving.  This work must be done in the late spring, summer and early fall before the weather changes to winter up here.  One thing I did note as different from my first drive to Alaska in 1998 is that there was much more pavement and much less gravel road.  On the earlier trip one had to wash their car and trailer at each stop along the way to remove the heavy mud which had accumulated.  This trip I have only washed my vehicles once, in Whitehorse before we headed north on the 10^th. 

Just beyond Beaver Creek (the last Canadian town) I encountered a nice roadside lake that had two Trumpeter Swans close enough to get a good picture (see pic on my Facebook page).  Then shortly afterward there was another pond with Pacific Loons and several duck species.  I hoped to camp at the Tetlin NWR before getting to Tok but upon checking the sites out I determined it was much too difficult to get my rig into either one, so I headed on to Tok River SP just short of Tok.  There I found a nice campsite and set up there for two days.  By the time I arrived it was late in the day and I needed to go to town and get fuel.

On the 11^th I headed north to do some birding, checking some of the locations noted in George West A Birders Guide to Alaska.  The first stop was Tanana River Road where there is a small airfield.  The book suggested that I might find Upland Sandpipers there, but I did not.  I did find a small pond farther along the road that held several duck species, Rusty Blackbird, Common Goldeneye, and a bird that was calling that I could never figure out.  My final stop that day was at Moon Lake SP north of Tok.  There, as I entered, I encountered a black bear which did not give me the opportunity to get a picture of him .  I went on into the campground and warned those camped there that a black bear was in the neighborhood.  They were very appreciative.  From here I headed back to camp.  By noon the rain had set in and it rained all afternoon and until the very early hours of the 12^th.  Rain in Alaska is usually just a few drops falling wide apart, but this was a slow and steady rain I have rarely encountered here.  So in the afternoon I worked on photos.

Then today (the 12^th) I woke up at five and while having coffee was going to do this blog, but for some strange reason my MS 365 was not operable.  So I spent the next 2 ½ hours with a MS technician getting that fixed.  By now it was near 9:30 and I started getting ready for departure.  Actually the sun was coming out when I left but not far up the road it began to rain on me again.  It rained on me all the way to Fairbanks and while I set up camp as well.  I asked the camp host if they knew any place in Alaska that needed rain and if so they could contract me to come there because the rain has followed me 15 of the 20 days since I crossed into Canada.  Tomorrow I will bird the Fairbanks area, an area I have only been in once in my 18 trips to Alaska.  Should be interesting.

Whitehorse—June 8

I slept in this morning. It has been a while since I slept to 7:30. This morning I did some straightening up and got the washing together to take to Whitehorse.  After doing my washing at a local laundromat I ran some other errands in preparation for heading on toward Alaska tomorrow.  By the time I had finished all my errands it was approaching 4 o’clock and I decided to do some birding around Whitehorse.  I finally got direction to the lost lakes from the visitor center and headed out there.  I was very disappointed by what I found.  After visiting all of them I could only turn up a couple of Mew Gulls so I headed back to camp.   Tomorrow I head north.

Atlin, Tagish & Carcross to Whitehorse

Well today I began early for would be a 250 drive round trip from camp to complete the loop.  I must say it was well worth the effort.  I decided to take Dulce with me today because it will be a long day and she would be alone in the trailer all day.  Needless to say she slept through the whole day.  So I had to backtrack a bit to Jake’s Crossing to connect to the highway to Atlin.  I have posted three videos to Facebook that I took along the way and I have not yet downloaded the still pictures I took.  The scenery was indeed beautiful which reminded of a trip to Skagway in 2003 that was equally beautiful.  In fact, across the range of mountains from Atlin is Skagway, AK.  The trip to Atlin from Jake’s Corner is a little of 60 miles but the scenery required may stops along the way.  In addition, today was a great day for wildlife.  I lucked upon a Lynx sitting alongside the road and was able to get many pictures.   I also had two Mountain Goats on the ledge at White Mountain along the way.   I will post them tomorrow after I have time to work on them.  I am writing this from Starbucks in Whitehorse where I can post it before I leave for camp.  I also had my second cow moose of the trip, several Arctic Squirrels, a groups of Surf Scoters, and an American Dipper.  When in Atlin I ran across Mike and Terri, the people I had met at Liard Hot Springs, and they invited me to tag along with them and some other friends that were going to pan for gold.  I followed them out to the stream and watched for a short time before I headed back to the road and completing the loop.  I’m sure the pictures I have taken will turn out to be very beautiful.  Now it’s back to camp and plan something for tomorrow.  I will stay in the Whitehorse area for the next two days before heading on to Alaska and my arrival at the Denali Highway on the 14^th or so to find the Arctic Warblers who are have returned by then.

Teslin Lake to Marsh Lake—June 6

Got an early start today and headed to a Marsh Lake PP about 20 miles for Whitehorse.  I decided to stay there and commute to Whitehorse because I plan on taking a scenic drive to Atlin, BC, Tagish, YT and Carcross, YT tomorrow for the beautiful scenery it offers.  I have never been to Atlin so this will be new territory.  After getting set up I went for a short drive to see what I could find in the way of birds.  The wind was up pretty strong so the lake had waves and I’m sure the birds were in protective coves.  I was able to locate a beaver in a small pond nearby along with 4 Mallard chicks.  Then I went to a place called Swan Haven where hundreds of swan’s stage in migration.  Unfortunately, they have already left and the only birds there were two adult Bald Eagles and two immatures.  So back to the campsite and lunch.  After lunch I went to Whitehorse to run some errands, get some supplies and get access to the internet.  I succeeded in all and was there until late in the afternoon before heading back to camp.  Once in camp Dulce and I enjoyed a nice campfire before retiring for the evening.  Tomorrow will be a long driving day, but without a trailer.  Along the way I did encounter one Black Bear but that was the extent of wildlife for the day.

Teslin Lake—June 5

Today started sunny but that didn’t last long.  By 10 am the rain had commenced and it turned much cooler.  I ventured back to Teslin and found a restaurant for breakfast and that had internet access.  I spent an hour there and during that time a bus load of 45 people stopped for lunch and the restaurant totally filled up.  After breakfast I drove around the area looking for birds, but I was not able to locate any wildlife on the lake.  I think there was too much wind and they must have sought save harbor.  So back to camp.  Once there I evaluated the way I had packed the kitchen.  One shelf in a small cabinet had continued to fall down and I decided that I should have put the much lighter items in that cabinet and move the other items to a place with a more solid foundation.  The undulating and some bad road conditions tend to make many items not travel well.  The new arrangement will work much better I’m sure.  I also changed the sheets on my bed and got things ready to wash in Whitehorse.  In the evening two Alberta couples invited me over to visit.  They had a nice fire going in the rain (I say rain—here in Canada and Alaska rain is more like dripping).  You can usually dry off between drips.  We had a nice visit and Dulce made new friends.  Then it was time for bed and get ready for departure tomorrow early.  I have decided to stay as Marsh Lake PP, about 25 miles east of Whitehorse and then drive to Atlin from there the following day.  This will save fuel because I will not be towing the trailer an additional 120 miles.  Otherwise, it was a quiet day in which Dulce and I got to take a nap.  Birds in the campground were not abundant.  I was greatly surprised as I sat drinking my morning coffee to see another Spruce Grouse fly across the clearing between me and the camp bathrooms.  Other birds were a constantly singing American Robin, a Dark-eyed Junco, Black-capped Chickadee and Northern Hawk Owl that call for about 20 minutes from his high perch.  

Liard Hot Springs to Teslin

Today began early again.  Up at a little after 5 and off by 6:30 for the drive to Teslin.  I prefer to leave early in order to have a better chance at seeing wildlife and today I was rewarded for my efforts.  Shortly after leaving camp I encountered a group of half a dozen buffalo lounging along the side of the highway (see pictures at Jim Hailey Nature Photography).  This is a wild herd that has been in the area for many years.  Then up the highway I encountered a total of 5 black bears feeding alongside the road.  I was able to photograph them and even had the opportunity to video one (see video).  As usual the scenery was amazing and I have included several scenic shots among the photos.  I also had the chance in Watson Lake to gain access to the internet and could post my blogs and some pictures.  Unfortunately, I could not get the videos of the waterfalls at Smith River or the bear to go through.  Hopefully I can do that soon.  I made it to camp and set up by 5:30 after a long but slow drive.  I stopped frequently to take photos.  The trip today was 300 miles and puts me within 100 miles of Whitehorse.  I plan on spending tomorrow at Teslin and the on Monday heat to Atlin, BC, about 100 miles away.  This is a place I have never been and I understand the lake view is spectacular.  I will take photos.

Liard Hot Springs

When I woke up this morning the skies were overcast but not raining.  After breakfast I took a short 15-mile drive to Smith River Falls.  The falls are massive and beautiful (see video at Jim Hailey Nature Photography.  I’ve been without internet access for three days now so I have not been able to post anything.  I hope tomorrow I can get access on the internet in Watson Lake on my way to Teslin.  Along the road up to the falls I tried in several places to call in some bird but to no avail.  Birds in this area are very difficult to see because the popular are so tall and the spruce as well that they reside in the tops and make it very difficult to find, let alone photograph.  On my return I met some fellow birders Mike and Terri Church.  They have a business called Rolling Homes Press and publish extensive camping guides to Alaska, the US Southwest, Pacific Northwest, Mexico and Europe.  They also know my friends Bert and Shari Frenz.  I spent 2 hours in the hot springs visiting with Mike and Terri about Alaska.  They both lived and worked there several years ago.  They make this trip to Alaska every 3 years.  We plan to meet up several times while here this year.  They told me about Atlin, BC a short 60 miles off the Alaska Highway and how beautiful it is, so I am going to make this side trip there after Teslin.  The spring are a wonderful respite after the long drive to get here and something you don’t want to miss.  I also met another couple from Vancouver, BC.  They also have Lance trailer and they came by to see my model last evening.  She is a music teacher and he is an anthropologist by training, but spend most of his business career running nonprofits.  His last employment was working for a non-profit that supported wildlife rehabilitation.  So tomorrow its off early where I understand they have a bird banding station.